General Description’s &
Locality
There is very little known about these animals
due to lack of recognition in the sub-species and lack of collection in
their limited range. Being
found in Central America. The bodies of these snakes will have a total
yellow-golden color, continuing to their tails.
Some animals will have a slight brownish-green overtone.
Lateral black line across the face and neck are other traits of
this sub-species. They are very similar in appearance to that of the
Blacktail Cribo (D.c.melanarus) Another pattern trait noticed
is the slight black lines along the sides between the scales.
This is more prominent in some animals more than others. There have only
been a few recorded captive breeding of this sub-species.
Acquisition,
Acclimation &, Behavior
As with all
snakes it better to start with a captive born and bred animal. Wild
caught animals are generally more nervous and reluctant feeders. Cribos
seem to be very prey specific, which means that if they had a specific
item they ate in the wild it may be difficult to reproduce that in
captivity. Captive
specimens accept a captive diet much easier . Cribos are a very
reclusive species, generally preferring to hide. When disturbed they
will start a defensive behavior common with colubrids. Tail rattling and
throat puffing are the most common. Rearing back and rising up in a
strike position is seen. Very rarely will they bite in defense.
Although this is a little more intimidating when it is an 8ft
Cribo versus a 4ft. Kingsnake. Once persuaded with a hook they will
usually subside their “show”. Once out of the
enclosure they are fine. Wild caught specimens will often
tolerate being handled. Moving very swiftly and powerfully, it takes a
little time to get used to they way they move.
Housing
As always
there are differences of opinions to how an animal should be housed.
But this fact remains certain with all Drymarchon, always house
them separately. They will fight and may try to consume one
another. Again this is how the author has successfully housed his
animals. Juveniles are kept in sweater boxes . Substrate is either
newspaper/paper towel or Sani-Chip (a very small hard wood bedding)
Cribos are very messy snakes, with a fast metabolism. Often defecating a
day or two after feeding. Again
a hide box is considered necessary. Adults have been successfully kept
in large sweater boxes. Breeding reports of housing like this is not
known. Adults are generally kept in larger enclosures. A 4t. by 30inch
enclosure is used. A slide
door to an adjoining cage is used for breeding only. Newspaper is the
substrate of choice. An adult Cribo being fed a lot will make a big
mess. The easier the substrate is to replace the easier it will be to
keep a hygienic atmosphere. A
water bowl is available at all time for drinking only. We have not found
it necessary for Cribos to bathe. Again an ample size hide box is
strongly recommended. Other wise newspaper will be strewn about the
cage. On a side note, we
have noticed that Unicolors prefer to “burrow” in their substrate
quite often regardless of the size of their hide box. This behavior does
not seem to have affected their comfort level relating to consistent
feeding or breeding. So, crumpled newspaper is a familiar site within
their enclosures. This might be a trait of their wild caught origin.
Time will tell if adult captive bred animals will continue this
behavior.
Temperature
Cribos do not
require high temperatures. An air temperature in the low 80’sand a
basking spot in the mid 80’s will suffice. We find that the animals
prefer the cooler end of the enclosure. We place the hide box a little
closer to the cooler end then. Occasionally the animals will bask to aid
in digestion. To high of temperature will result in regurgitation.
Feeding
Cribos
naturally eat a large variety of prey items. Basically anything they can
over power they will consume. Wild caught specimens may be reluctant at
first to a natural rodent captive diet. You must try to re-create what
they were most commonly feeding on in the wild. Fish is usually a good
item to get them going. Live feeder fish in a water bowl will usually
attracts their attention, even a piece of catfish from the store will do
the trick. Once feeding comfortably on fish, scenting rodents will
usually work without a problem to eventually eating unscented prey
items. Captive babies may require some help feeding on rodents also.
Cribos have poor eyesight. In fact when striking at prey items they will
miss repeatedly even though it may be right in front of them. Oddly
enough they are very much attracted to movement. This is why babies may
sometimes need a little help getting started rodents. A pinkie moves
very little. It is very important that you feed pre-killed. A large rat
can do serious damage to a Cribo. Generally
we try to feed a variety of foods. Switching between rodents and chicken
frequently. During late summer we feed frogs that we catch and freeze to
kill any worms. Naturally they eat a wide variety, we try to give them
that in captivity as much as possible.
Occasional vitamin dusting is also a good idea.
Breeding
There is very
little consistent success breeding Cribos in captivity except for a few
dedicated breeders. We
are not the best authority on breeding them but will list the general
outline used. A cooling period is deemed necessary for success.
Generally starting in November a temperature drop into the very high
60’s to the low 70’s will work. Being cooled down for a minimum of
2months is very important. The
snakes should continue to feed throughout this cooling period, although
not as frequently. It should be noted that small prey items should be
offered rather than large to aid in digestion. Once retuning the animals
to normal temperatures you may begin introduction of the male and
female. We prefer to use the small door adjoining 2 cages, for several
reasons. First it gives a more natural less stressful introduction.
Second, is that one animal may be more interested in breeding than the
other and start being combative. This allows a retreat for them to get
away out of the others territory. A watchful eye is very important . It
is not uncommon to have Cribos kill each other or even eat one another.
Be very careful to never leave the snakes unattended for long periods of
time. Courtship should commence almost at once. A very aggressive mating
ritual to watch indeed. The male will follow with gusto and gyrate his
body to stimulate the female. An
occasional bite by the male to hold the female is not uncommon.
Copulation will last from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours.
Separation and reintroduction is necessary for multiple
copulation. If a male is reluctant to breed a shed skin from another
male may be used to stimulate him. Do not place two males together. The
results could be terrible.
Gestation is
fairly quick. Within a couple of weeks you may notice ovulation and may
be able to palpate the egg follicles. A couple of weeks later they will
do a pre-lay shed. At this time a large nest box is recommended in place
of their hide box. We use a sweater box with a lid on and a hole cut in
the side, filled with damp cypress mulch. Eight to fifteen days later
the female will deposit her eggs. They eggs should then be placed in an
incubator at a temp. of 78-80 degrees. Vermiculite is used with a water
ratio of 1:1. With the cool incubation temperatures, incubation will
take about 90 days to hatch. Higher temperatures results in spinal kinks
and “dead in egg”.
Conclusion
Cribos are
magnificent animals. Their movement, body structure and scalation are
all unique to them. Being a messy animal is a turnoff for a lot of
keepers. However we feel that they are well worth their efforts. We hope
this sheet has helped. Enjoy.
~ written by Matthew Smith of Dominion
Reptiles
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